Karen's Alaskan Cruise

I had promised Karen when we sold our house in Klamath Falls, that I would take her on an Alaskan Cruise. While we had always been marginally financially comfortable in our working life there had never been any excess to just "waste". My quotes on that word should give you a clue as to my feelings on the subject. However a promise is a promise, even when given under duress.

I finally began looking into the possibilities late last winter. I actually wanted to take another shot at going to Denali National Park. We had attempted to do so while I was in the Army in 1967 and stationed at Fairbanks. I had a 55 Chevy station wagon that got 50 miles to the quart of oil and tires so bald they could have been called slicks, but it was still possible that we could actually make the trip without too much trauma.

We did get there via a dirt road (fist sized rocks) with only one flat. A kindly attendant at Susitna Lodge sold us a used tire for $35.00. Perhaps he had looked in my wallet, because I am sure I didn't have much more than that. We stayed in the Savage River Camp ground, and for dinner we had one of the first freeze dried packaged meals that were on the market. I shall never forget that meal as long as I live. It was pork chops with fried potatoes. It had begun a drizzling rain, common to the area and time of the year. Karen prepared the meal per the instructions, and we sat down on a wet picnic table to eat. It was terrible and not really recognizable as to what was advertised. There was a "Parka Squirrel" that was bumming food, and even he wouldn't eat it. Since it was June and daylight was about 19 hours, I put a blanket around the inside of the car to block out the light by rolling up the ends of the blanket in the windows. We of course woke up to wet sleeping bags as the rain had wicked right in via the blanket. We never saw the mountain until we got back to Fairbanks.

I happened to mention to my sister that we were thinking about going, and she told me that her oldest, Jerry, and his wife Wanda were booked for a trip there this spring. A few calls and we were lined up to go at the same time. We planned a 7 day cruise and then arranged a train trip to Denali with a two day stay that would give us plenty of time to do whatever side trips that we wanted to make. (Jerry and I are within three or four years of each other and I have always liked and enjoyed his company.)

When we got into Vancouver and got into the line to get processed to board, the couple in front of us was Jerry and Wanda. The boat was actually very nice, and pretty new, so we had no complaints about our accommodations. It had a nice little balcony where we could sit and watch the scenery. Of course the railing blocked most of the view for me, but I suppose that I would complain at any rate.

We had bought an extra 2 gig card for our camera's before we left, but I found that I took very few pictures. Karen did better than I, but the weather while nice, and the sea's calm, was always a bit foggy and cloudy. The sunsets were always nice, although quite late in the evenings. A rather stupid statement I realize, but sunset at 10:30 PM is a surprise to anyone.

One of the stumbling blocks for me was the dinner arrangements. They actually had the audacity to want me to wear a suit or a tux for some of the dinners. Our dinner companions were a couple from Soldotna that took the cruise down and back, and another couple that was from Georgia, Larry and Maxine. Dennis was a FAA air traffic controller, and he and his wife Linda were very nice. Larry did not divulge his occupation, but from his actions and mannerisms I picked him as a "Used Car Salesman". I put Wanda up to asking him what he did for a living, and guess what? Damn, sometime I scare myself. I never did wear a suit. ( who woulda thought it)

Our first stop was Ketchikan and we decided to do just a independent walking tour of the area. It was all pretty touristy but we still had a good time. Every where we went there were Diamond stores trying to pry every dollar they could out of us. It was a bit like the Carnivals when we were kids, with the cons tailored to drain every sucker they could.

Our next stop was Juneau. Karen and I decided to rent a car to see the area. We caught a cab to the airport and rented a small little compact. We went to the Mendenhall Glacier and got a look at it, then toured the town and managed to see the whole thing in about two hours. Really not much to it, and damned little to do. We went to the Museum, took a turn around the Governors Mansion, drove to the end of the road on the south end, decided against doing the same going north.

Skagway was the next stop. We had signed up for a trip on the White Pass RR for a trip up the route of the Chilkoot trail. There was a bit of good scenery, but most of it was hidden in the trees and the rest in clouds and fog. We got on the last car and on the trip up was quite comfortable, but when they switched ends on the trip back we were almost overcome with the diesel smoke.

The rest of the day we walked into town where we found a "Rickshaw" pulled by a young man who only asked to be paid what "we thought it was worth". Karen really wanted to see the cemetery where "Soapy Smith" was reputed to be buried. It was quite a long walk and one that Karen wasn't physically able to make, so with misgivings I decided to see if he would take us there. He readily agreed saying that it was one of his favorite places. It was the best decision that I made on the whole trip. He was a great guide and the trip was very pleasant. I probably paid him too much, (which was the plan I am sure) but it was worth it. The poor guy was paying $700 a month to stay in a camp trailer.

Soapy Smith was of course immortalized in Alaska lore as a con man during the gold rush. Goggle would be an interesting search for him. He was killed in a shootout with Frank Reid, a citizen who had had enough. Soapy was killed out right with a bullet in the heart while Frank was shot in the stomach and was reputed to have taken twelve days to die. They buried Soapy outside of the cemetery, while a monument was erected for Frank.

The markers were interesting to read, lot of them were very young when they died. Life was very hard, and death came easy and often.
The area was really quite lovely and peaceful, for a grave yard, and Karen took the time to rest a bit.
Our next place of interest was the Hubbard Glacier. We sailed to within a half mile from the glacier. It was a bit cool, but very pretty.
To be continued.